Replacing Shocks (400GT)

I just finished replacing the shocks on my Islero S after having the front springs reset longer to get sufficient ground clearance to make me feel good about the oil cooler, and to prevent rubbing on the top of the inner fender in downhill corners when braking. I thought I"d post a hint. While I was able to pry both shocks out of there, I was NOT able to get the shock back in on the driver"s side only, with the longer springs. Solution - remove tie rod from steering arm (use the time honoured two hammer method to avoid buggering up the grease boot), and you get that extra half inch or so that allows insertion of the bottom eye and then the top. I don"t know if the other 400 derivatives are the same, but the Islero could use just a little more room around the top bolts to be able to slide them in without having to tap them with a hammer. I expect that the inner fender area was designed by a different guy than did the suspension, though. Ever since having to remove the engine on one of my Twincam MGs, which at the factory, had the engine installed and the body mounted over it, I have been of the opinion that a final stage in all car designs should be to require the design team to disassemble one car using hand tools, and reassemble it the same way. I am sure that would make no end of improvement in ease of maintenance! BTW, in regard to a thread on jacking on one of the groups or another, the bracket where the front sway bar attaches to the A arm makes a handy place to jack. You could also do it under the lower ball joint, at least on my car, which has plugs instead of grease nipples installed (there was some concern about snapping off nipples). Bill Spohn [This message contained attachments]