Re: Cooling system notes of interest

One thing to add. James D"iorio turned me on to Red Line"s Water wetter to add to the radiator when filling. One bottle will help keep the temperature in line. As all Espada owners know, circulation is poor under the hood and anything to keep things cool is appreciated. I use it in my car and have yet to have any overheating issues.You can buy it at any Pep Boys, etc. stevo ----- Original Message ----- From: docmirror To: VintageLambo@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2002 11:02 AM Subject: [VintageLambo] Cooling system notes of interest I"m just finishing up the refurb of the cooling system on my Espada S1, and will share some tidbits I found. Unlike most of my posts, I"ll keep it short. DON"T run the engine with no water in the system! 1. Be careful if you take your radiator to a shop to repair. Find a tech with gray hair to work on it, and be warned that the type of assembly on the original radiator is difficult to get back together without leaking at rated pressure(2atm or 14.7psig) Have it tested carefully before leaving the shop. Take your cap too, test it. The bottom rad bolts and nuts are a %*&#$^%# to remove. 2. The thermostat is at the front end of the return pipe between the heads. It is screwed in, and the threads seem to become clogged, or damaged due to dissimilar metal contact and contaminants in the coolant. It would be better to test it in boiling water by not removing it from the tube. Just boil and stick the end of the pipe in the pot. Check for full openning and closing. If you"re anal, use a thermometer and watch the action as the water heats up. 3. There are three sensors (in my system), two at the top of the radiator, and one off the back of the return tube. The triangle one switches the fan on at 190F, the thermistor next to it provides signal to the temp gauge. I don"t know where the wires from the rear sensor go, but be careful when removing the tube (4 10mm nuts/washers) to take off the spade conn first, and the heater hose, be gentle with the sensors. 4. bottom hose = 1 1/4", use about 7 inches of Green Stripe, trim to fit. Top hose = 1 3/4", use about 1 foot trim to fit. New clamps too! 5. Don"t forget the heaterlines. mine were rock hard, splitting and ready to gush. Supply is from the rear of the return tube, thru firewall to the control valve just above drivers right knee. Take off choke bracket, remove screws and remove trim panel by lowering section next to steering column and swivel it out. From valve to the core in the center console and back out the side to the engine compartment. Plan on several hours getting the hoses and clamps off. Use a die grinder with a cutoff wheel, replace everything. 1/2" Green Stripe hose, about 4 feet, trim to fit, six new clamps. 6. With radiator out, back flush with a garden hose at the return tube. I swaged a rag around the hose and jammed it in there. If you have > 60psi water pressure, go easy. Gunk will come out the water pump supply tube and make a mess of the front. Use a long 1 1/4" hose to route it to the ground. I spurted on and off for a few minutes before it ran out clean. 7. Have the Bosch fan motors refurbed too. The fan nuts are LEFT hand thread. I took them to a motor repair shop and they charged me $62 each to clean, replace brushes, lube and reasemble. Then I had the housings and fans bead blasted (looks nice..uummm). Fans draw 7-8 amps each. 8. Get help with the radiator install. I told the shop not to paint my core, I think it"s more efficient without paint on it. I did paint the tanks and sides. Put the fans on first, install as an assembly. Heat and fit the top and bottom hoses before bolting the radiator in, they"re stiff. Use anerobic sealant on the return tube gaskets. 9. Fill rad with distilled water and antifreeze. I don"t make recommendations, but I don"t like the